Cartier Tank Louis 78087 'Paris Dial' + Box & Papers (Ca. 1983)

The Cartier Tank Louis has a history that dates back to 1917, when Louis Cartier designed a watch inspired by the recognizable lines of the French FT-17 tank. The idea was to create a modern, sleek, and well-wearable wristwatch that clearly stood out from the round pocket watches that were still the norm at the time.

In 1922, the Tank Louis was introduced, the refined version that gave the design its definitive character. This model received slimmer proportions and slightly rounded corners, making it comfortable to wear. The classic Cartier elements such as the Roman numerals on the white dial and the sapphire cabochon complete the design.

The Tank Louis quickly became popular among enthusiasts of a style that is both chic and understated. Over the years, the model has remained virtually unchanged, which says a lot about the strength of the original design. It has grown into one of the most recognizable and valued Cartier Tank watches.

The specific reference 78087 that we have here is a vintage version of the iconic Tank Louis design, mostly produced between the 1970s and 1990s. The case, which is in perfect condition, is made of 18-carat gold and has the traditional dimensions of 20 x 28 mm. Notably, the dial is in beautiful condition with a very slight craquelé, which is hardly noticeable and only very lightly visible from certain angles. The dial features the inscription “Paris” at the bottom, also known as a Paris Dial. This detail refers to Cartier’s Paris workshop and adds extra authenticity and vintage charm to the watch. Of course, the classic Roman numerals, rail-track minuterie, and sapphire cabochon should not be forgotten!

This beautiful vintage Cartier Tank Louis is fitted with a red/cognac-colored lizard strap from Cartier, along with an 18K yellow gold Cartier buckle. Technically, the Tank 78087 is equipped with the reliable manual-wind Cartier 78-1 caliber, which has recently undergone a full service at a Cartier service center (Tempus).

Something we don't often encounter anymore is that with this type of vintage Cartier watches, the box and papers have been preserved. Originally, this watch was delivered in Zurich in 1983. This Cartier Tank Louis 78087 comes with box, papers (card), Cartier booklet/manual, cardholder, and 24 months warranty on the movement from 10 over 10.

Would you like to view this watch in person, while enjoying a good cup of coffee? Click here to explore the options for booking an appointment.

What you need to know:
- Cartier Tank Louis 78087
- Original Paris Dial in perfect condition, with very light craquelé
- Dark blue sword-shaped hands and sapphire cabochon crown
- 18K yellow gold case in perfect condition, dimensions 20 x 28 mm
- Fitted with a red/cognac-colored lizard strap from Cartier
- 18K yellow gold Cartier buckle
- Comes with box, papers (card), Cartier cardholder and booklet
- Movement recently fully serviced
- 24 months warranty on the movement
- Free insured shipping within the EU

Cartier

In 1847, Louis-François Cartier took over the jewelry workshop from his master. His sons and grandsons inherited the family business over the years. They opened stores in London and New York. In 1904, the Cartier brand was even appointed by King Edward VII of the United Kingdom as "the jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers." Cartier became so popular that royal commissions came in from all over the world. 

Cartier is primarily known for its jewelry, but it also has a very rich history in watchmaking. In 1888, Cartier began making ladies' wristwatches. At that time, it was more common for men to choose the traditional pocket watch. Louis Cartier gave a good Brazilian friend, Santos Dumont, an aviation pioneer, a watch to wear during flights because he complained about the impracticality of using a pocket watch while flying. The Cartier Santos-Dumont was not only the first watch for men but also the first true pilot's watch.

The case of the Santos was apparently inspired by a square pocket watch that Cartier had made. The design of the dial signals a shift towards the Art Deco style that would define the 1920s and 30s. To this day, Cartier's design is influenced by this. The case was designed to be robust, and the screws that held the glass in place were meant to resemble the legs of the new Eiffel Tower. The black Roman numerals also suggest the radial design of the streets and wide boulevards of Paris.