Cartier Tank Must 'Grey Art Deco Dial' Ref. 520005 (LM) + Papers Ca. 1991
The Must de Cartier Tank watch, introduced in the 1970s, is a special variant of the classic Cartier Tank. This model is distinguished by the characteristic Must de Cartier inscription on the dial.
The term Must de Cartier was used as a brand name and marketing strategy to make Cartier products more accessible. It allowed Cartier to offer watches and accessories at an affordable price without compromising the high quality standards and distinctive design for which Cartier is known.
The Must de Cartier Tank watch became a great success and enjoyed wide popularity in the 1970s. The model retained the iconic rectangular design of the original Cartier Tank and was released in various versions, including steel, gilded gold, and with a variety of dials.
The Must de Cartier Tank watch that we present here features the so-called Grey Art Deco dial, thanks to the gray center, the white border surrounded by Roman numerals, and the lines that indicate the hours. This ensures that the dial contains all the characteristic features that a vintage Cartier Tank should have and makes it a true eye-catcher! This type of dial was made with a kind of lacquer finish, giving it a porcelain-like appearance. We often see that this type of dial shows craquelé, which is certainly normal, but with this watch, the dial is completely intact and like new! We rarely see them like this.
Characteristic is that the Must de Cartier Tank watches are equipped with a silver case, gilded with gold. This model is the large size, also known as LM (Large Model), with dimensions of 23 x 30 mm. We often see that the gilding on these types of old watches has flaked off over time, especially at the corners where it becomes lighter. The case of this Tank Must is in great condition and is truly like new and completely intact. This makes us very happy!
This vintage Cartier Tank Must 520005 is of course equipped with its famous gold hands and the blue cabochon crown, just as it should be with a Cartier Tank. The watch is powered by a Cartier quartz caliber, which is of course in perfect condition and keeps time well. The watch is equipped with a new battery. Additionally, the watch features a new gray lizard leather strap that perfectly matches the middle gray part of the dial. This beautiful vintage Cartier Tank Must 520005 with gray Art Deco dial comes with its original papers, service booklet, wallet and 24 months warranty on the movement.
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What you need to know:
- Must de Cartier Tank with gray 'Art Deco' dial
- Gold-plated case fully intact, like new
- Large model (LM), dimensions: 23 x 30 mm
- Equipped with a new gray lizard leather strap (without Cartier buckle)
- Quartz movement
- 24 months warranty on the movement
- Free insured shipping within the EU
Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank watch is one of the most iconic watches in the history of haute horlogerie. The tank was first introduced in 1917 and quickly became a timeless symbol of style and elegance. To this day, the Cartier Tank remains one of the most popular and successful models from Cartier.
The story behind the Cartier Tank watch begins with Louis Cartier, the founder of Cartier. He was inspired by the tanks used during World War I. The sleek lines and shapes of the tanks piqued his interest, and he decided to translate this into a watch design. In 1917, the first Cartier Tank watch was introduced. The model stood out with its rectangular case with rounded corners, reminiscent of the shape of a tank. The tank featured a simple dial with Roman numerals and blue steel hands. It was a radical design for its time, as most watches then had round cases. The Cartier Tank watch quickly became popular among high society and celebrities, including style icons like Jacqueline Kennedy, Andy Warhol, and Princess Diana. The watch was regarded as a symbol of refinement and class.
Base
Brand | Cartier |
Model | Tank Must Vermeil |
Reference | 590005 |
Year | Ca. 1991 |
Documentation | Yes |
Box | No |
Movement
Caliber | Cartier Cal. 81 |
Winding | Quartz |
Case
Diameter | 23 x 30 mm (LM) |
Material case | Silver / gold-plated |
Material bezel | Silver / gold-plated |
Dial | Gray / White / Art Deco |
Glass | Mineral |
Bracelet
Clasp | Buckle |
Clasp material | Steel (gold color) |
Bracelet material | Lizard leather |
Bracelet color | Gray |








