Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796D 'Clous de Paris' (Ca. 1991)

The Patek Philippe Calatrava was introduced in 1932 and is regarded as one of the most iconic dress watches of all time. The model was launched during a challenging economic period, the Great Depression, shortly after Jean and Charles Henri Stern took over Patek Philippe. Their aim was to create a watch that was timeless, elegant, and technically refined.

The first model, reference 96, was designed according to the principles of the Bauhaus style: clean lines, perfect proportions, and optimal legibility. This minimalist approach was in stark contrast to the richly decorated watches of the time and laid the foundation for an entirely new design and an iconic timepiece.

It is worth noting that the name Calatrava refers to the Calatrava cross, Patek Philippe’s emblem. Over the decades, the Calatrava has been developed in various precious metals and configurations, without losing its original character.

The vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3796D we have here dates from circa 1991. The watch features the well known white dial, which remains in perfect condition: completely clean, with black Roman numerals, black hands, and a subdial at six o’clock. The 18K yellow gold case, with a classic diameter of 30.5 mm, is in excellent condition, allowing all original angles and lines to be perfectly visible. Its size makes this Patek Philippe suitable for both men and women. The case sides retain perfect brushing, and the high-polish lugs are also very well preserved. The case back is in excellent condition, with all gold hallmarks clearly visible.

Furthermore, this Patek Philippe Calatrava is fitted with the so-called 18K yellow gold Clous de Paris, also known as a hobnail bezel. The term Clous de Paris is French for “Parisian nails”, a motif originating from classical French decorative arts. The English term hobnail refers to the small nail-head-like pattern, reminiscent of nails once used in shoe soles.

The watch comes with its original and period-correct gold crown bearing the Patek Philippe emblem. The reliable hand-wound calibre 215 keeps perfect time and is in good condition, so a full service is not currently required.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is equipped with a new, thin and supple, matching glossy alligator strap by RIOS. The original 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle, showing the PP & Co inscription, has been preserved and fitted to the new strap.

This beautiful vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796D with Clous de Paris bezel is supplied with a 1-year mechanical warranty from 10 over 10.

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What you need to know:
- Patek Philippe Calatrava, reference 3796D
- 18K yellow gold case, 30.5 mm, in perfect condition
- Clous de Paris bezel
- Periode-correcte crown
- White dial in perfect condition
- Calibre 215 keeps accurate time (average amplitude 268-284, deviation -3 to +3 seconds, Beat error 0.0ms)
- Original 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle
- 1 year mechanical warranty
- Free insured shipping within the EU

Patek Philippe

The story of Patek Philippe begins in 1839 in Geneva, when the Polish watchmaker Antoni Patek together with Franciszek Czapek crafted their first timepieces. Shortly afterwards, Patek met the French inventor Adrien Philippe, known for his keyless winding system. In 1851, the company was renamed Patek Philippe & Co., and ever since, the brand has been renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovative watchmaking.

Since 1932, the family-owned business has been in the hands of the Stern family, who have preserved and enhanced the brand’s heritage and reputation. Patek Philippe is internationally recognised for watches that are both technically sophisticated and aesthetically timeless. From the iconic Calatrava, with its clean, elegant lines, to the sporty Nautilus and the remarkable Grand Complications, each timepiece is entirely crafted in-house and meticulously finished.